I’ve been a siding contractor for 11 years here in Michigan (Pro-Tech Siding Contractors) and working as a machinist for 8 years allowed me to come up with this design to help make siding more economical and efficient. The Side Track handles siding with ease and also works great for remodelers and carpenters since it will cut a variety of materials. The shipping box is 24” x 60” x 4” and the Side Track needs only minor assembly.

The Side Track Saw Table by itself measures 2’ x 5’ and it’s a very lightweight portable saw table made of 1” square aluminum tubing with an aluminum extruded saw slide system and has a ½” thick work surface. The Side Track comes with a DeWalt 6 ½” rechargeable saw, battery and charger specifically designed to fit the Side Track, no mounting plate or bolts are required. I also recently redesigned the Side Track to fold in half making it even more portable so it will fit in the trunk or back seat of a car or truck. Current saw tables on the market are 6’ long and weigh 80 lbs. and require an expensive mounting table and use electric saws that need cords and generators. With the Side Track, batteries can be charged using your car or truck cigarette lighter outlet. So you can basically build anything anywhere even with no power!

This saw table will cut most vinyl, aluminum, wood and hardi plank siding material. It will also cut most lumber 1 ½” thick such as 2×4’s up to 2×12’s and decking material. Another unique feature is that the Side Track locks into 18 pre-set roof pitch positions from 4/12 to 12/12. Once you know your roof pitch you just move the saw slide to the appropriate pitch, tighten the knob and you are ready to cut. Moving from straight cuts to angle cuts only takes seconds. You can cut a complete rafter without a framing square. The Side Track will set up on folding saw horses or can be mounted to a DeWalt miter saw stand using the pre-drilled holes for the brackets. And because it weighs less than 40 lbs it can be used up on scaffolding since it doesn’t require extension cords.

The Side Track is patent pending and I’ve use it extensively for 2 years siding all day every day working for 18 area builders on new home construction and cutting a wide variety of materials on remodeling jobs.

I’ve been selling the Side Track on my web site and have had good results and I’m look forward to having the Side Track in area siding supply stores in the near future. To learn more visit Mel’s website www.SideTrackSawTable.com

Here is a customer’s response to Mel’s design:

Mel,
Its funny you should email today.
This was the first day I’ve used it….installing some hardi plank.
Man what a great track saw!!! Very smooth and supper easy to us.
Not to mention how light this baby is…you nailed the design.
Everyone has asked me about it.
I would highly recommend this side track to anyone in the construction industry.
I will get some pics for you when I get a chance.
The job I’m on now wouldn’t do justice…but I have a renovation coming up
that’s all hardi plank, 2 story’s high plus gables…..I’ll be sure to send you some good shots. It will be around the first of the year before I can get them to you via email.
Thanks again and good luck. -Jonathon -Sneed Perpetual Builders Inc

Side Track ready to ship

DIMENSION:

• Think of the present and future. Try a one-story building.
• Adjust the height, width and length of a building. An 8′ ceiling may be sufficient.
• Measure and rearrange interior items. It’s easy to edit a floor plan in MS Paint.
• A twin bed is 3′ x 6.25′. A double bed is 4′ x 6.25′.
• Most under-counter appliances are 2′ x 2′.
• Some stoves/fridges are more narrow.
• Some fridges/dishwashers are small enough to fit under a kitchen sink.
• Rather than a porch/deck, store a portable screenhouse and lawn chair in the trunk of your car.

Photo Credits: ProtoHaus

LIGHTING:

• Rather than rely on lighting, provide adequate daylight.
• Try windows east, west, north and south.
• For longer-lasting daylight, try skylights.
• Use windows/skylights where needed, such as over the bathroom, kitchen counter, bed/couch.
• For spaciousness, try recessed lighting and deep window sills.
• Rather than drapes, try a small curtain at the top of a window.
• For curtains, recycle your favorite fabrics – they’re easy to make, clean and change.
• Mini blinds are more versatile than shades.

COMBINATION BEDROOM / LIVING ROOM:

• Try a slightly elevated daybed or futon couch.
• To eliminate closets and shelving, use underbed pull-out storage boxes/baskets.
• Store extra blankets in decorative pillowcases on the bed/couch.
• To limit wardrobe, recombine and layer several two-piece outfits.
• Rather than use a hanger, iron your outfit and wear it.
• Store one pair of boots, shoes and sneakers.
• Acquire a new wardrobe as needed.
• Use a hooded jacket rather than a hat or umbrella.
• Add a coat hook near the entry door.
• Use a computer notebook for all media. Eliminate a tv, stereo, books, etc.

KITCHEN EXAMPLES:

• With under-counter appliances, add windows/skylights across the entire counter area.
• Try a tall fridge on an inside wall, then a carousel cabinet in a lower corner, then an under-counter combination washer/dryer, single-bowl kitchen sink, dishwasher and stove.
• A double-layered, corner carousel cupboard may be all that is needed – to stack a set of dishes, pans and dry goods.
• Store a set of decorative dishes and glasses vertically on narrow wall shelves. Add mug hooks beneath the lowest shelf.
• A portable stovetop can be stored when not in use. Try one-pot recipes.
• One pot, a bowl, mug, spoon, fork and large knife may be all that is needed.
• Use a pot as a mixing bowl, spoon or mug to measure, fork to whisk, mug as a ladle.
• Rather than cupboard doors, try a set of small curtains. Use a small, spring-loaded curtain rod supported by mug hooks.
• To limit food storage, try a simple diet. Plain oatmeal for breakfast. Peanut butter sandwich for lunch. Grains, legumes and vegetables for supper. Drink only water.
• Rather than a dining room set, eat/entertain with your plate in your lap.
• Rather than a dish rack, dry dishes on a towel.
• Dry dish towels on hooks under the kitchen sink.
• Recycle a jar to store utensils, wildflowers or food as needed.

ADDITIONAL COUNTER SPACE:

• Try a pull-out cutting board or a large cutting board over the entire sink/stove.
• Rather than a counter top, try a large cutting board over any under-counter appliance.
• Use a cutting board as a lapdesk, to dine/serve or as an ironing board.

BATHROOM:

• With a wetbath, waterproof the lower half of the walls and use a shower curtain.
• Try a small 12-inch-depth corner sink.
• Rather than a vanity or medicine chest, try open shelving over the toilet – to store towels/cosmetics.
• Store small items in decorative boxes/baskets/jars on the shelving.
• Rather than a towel rack, use towel/clothing hooks.
• Try a full-length mirror on the back of the bathroom door – usually, they’re less expensive.

I’ve found a short film (actually an Ad from Hornbach Germany, a building supplies store like Home Depot) which is very amusing. Nice plot and pictures, no speaking and some very nice space saving ideas which might be interesting for your readers.

URL is http://www.das-grenzenlose-haus.de
The title means, wordly translated: “the borderless house – you can find a home in every shed”

The Borderless House

Adding Solar to your tiny house can be a daunting task if you are not up to date on all the latest technology and how it works together.

A couple of weeks ago we had a “Meeting of the Tiny Minds” and Bill Kastrinos of Tortoise Shell Homes told Jay, Stephen, Michael and I about this great solar solution that was out there.

What if there was a simple solution to this and all you had to do was plug and play? SoleMan a company based in Willits, California has come up with just that kind of solution.

They call their system the “one small, easy to move, all in one integrated unit, ready to point towards the sun at your best location, and deliver up to 1200 watts of AC power, and 12 volts DC power, and even charge all your Ni-Mh smaller batteries.”

This little unit is on heavy duty bicycle wheels so you can have your Tumbleweed home in the shade and easily roll your solar unit where it gets the most sun.

The cool thing about the SolMan is that if your needs grow, so can the SoleMan. You can add another solar panel easily and even a third. The second one sits on it is own stand and can be adjusted as needed. If you chose to get a third panel they have a bracket that attaches all three together that can be folded up for moving.

No need to deal with big panels and connecting them to your roof and knowing you have to park your home in the sun to get the most voltage to your system.
Here are list of the SolMan features:

1. Silent Operation: No sound whatsoever. Won’t bother your neighbors or you with gas generator noise.
2. Clean Operation: No gas needed, no gas cans to transport, no fumes or exhaust to worry about.
3. No additional costs EVER! : Once you buy a Solman, it doesn’t cost anything else to run, as long as you can point it towards the sun.
4. No recurring gasoline costs, that are only going to go up, no oil changes, no short life span, as unit is designed to keep working for years. ( 20 year PV panel warranty)
5. Completely self contained, integrated unit: Ready to go, plug and play green power. No engineering or electrical skills needed.
6. Transportable: With ramps, the Solman can go with you in the back of a small van, SUV or truck. It can be laid horizontal safely.
7. Mobility: 26 inch heavy duty aluminum spoke and rubber bike tires and perfect balance allow the unit to be wheeled to any location for the best sun, and can easily be turned thru the day for maximum solar tracking and optimal PV energy input.
8. Deep Cycle Batteries: “2 or 3 -100 (200 to 300 amp-hr total) deep cycle sealed gel cell. No acid spills or venting. No maintenance.
9. Enclosed battery Container: Optimizes battery life.
10. Two 12 Volt Auto Plugs: Plenty of places to plug in your 12 volt accessories, lights, chargers, etc.
11. One heavy 30 amp marine trolling motor plug on exterior, for water pumping, external battery charging, or additional external inverter.
12. All external plugs have covers and are set up for outdoor use, even in the rain, and all critical components are inside and protected from the weather.
13. Array only switch: to route unused, excess PV power during the day to external battery charging or water pumping.
14. Blue Sky Solar Boost 2000E MPPT PV Charge Controller: can handle up to 25 amps or 3 PV panels, and Maximum Power Point Tracking gives additional 10% to 20% charging efficiency to PV input.
15. 120 Volt Magnum MM-AE 1200 watt Inverter/Charger: this unit has a built in 70 amp charger for when your batteries are down, and you have access to a gas generator, or the grid, you can just plug in the unit and bring your battery bank up to full charge in as little as two hours, also has an AC transfer switch, that automatically senses external power and switches load to that when on.
16. Magnum Inverter remote switch and status lights on back of unit.
17. Fuse Protected: 150 amp inverter fuse, triplex plug 20 amp and exterior 30 amp plug.
18. Heavy 15 amp solar PV-in plug, wired to solar controller for adding an external solar panels.
19. Toe piece L on bottom, allows for easy transport of optional external PV panel.
20. Solar PV panel hinged for easy access to internal box, and latches and locks if needed.

So if you are looking to take your tiny house off the grid and become independent and want to use solar as your main component this SolMan option is worth looking at.

Of course there other other RV and home options so do your research and choose what is best for you and your situation. I just like the idea of plug and play and having everything put together where you need it and mobile to boot.

Anchoring:
I Begin this phase of construction by making sure I have enough hold down hardware to anchor my wall sill plates to the trailer frame. I use anchor bolts not only tie the sill plate to the subfloor system but to also insure that the system is tied to the trailers frame. I use 5/8” Galvanized through bolts with 2”x2”x ¼” thick steel square washers on the sill plates and 5/8” galvanized cut washers with lock nuts on the underside of the trailer. Since the bolts will be penetrating through both sides of ¼” tube steel I make sure I have a sharp bit with a spare sitting in my bit box. I also recommend another option of using HDU or PHD simpson ties in unison with the through bolts. Then I set my 2×4 wall sill plates and nail them down with 3” nails.

Making sure I hit the 2×4 spacers below the ¾” plywood. Then I locate the anchor bolts. I locate my anchor bolts within 12” of each corner and space them no greater than 36” apart from each other where the sills make contact with the subfloor system. This is the first step in insuring that the wall system will be secured to the trailer frame. The other hold down hardware will include strapping and will be touched upon latter in the next construction phase.

Stud walls:
After securing the wall sill plates, I first start my walls by building, leveling and bracing my vertical stud corners. Then I design my stud layout, locating all of my windows, doors, and beam supports all the while thinking about my sheathing layout and how the sheathing edges will terminate. By convention I use a 16” o.c. stud spacing. I toe nail all of my studs to the sills with 3” 10d nails then return to screw them in place with 3” self tapping screws to make sure that they do not work their way out when bumping down the road. I proceed to secure the studs by installing my first of two top plates making sure that the dimensions reflect my sill plate and that they are level with one another. I then am at task to provide my horizontal window and door headers, sills, and loft beams. I fully support all of my horizontal members down to my wall sills. That means that when I design my window and door vertical stud locations I provide room for king and trim studs. I screw all of my headers to the king studs and sills to the sill supports with 3” stainless steel screws. If condensation occurs at the widows I do not want any corrosion of my fasteners.

Wall plates and verticle studs

Loft Framing

Loft framing:

Once all of my windows and doors are framed I start work on the loft framing. Since the loft beams will be exposed, I spend time in the lumberyard selecting premium 2×6 kiln dried douglas fir boards. I pre sand them and cut them to fit into the beam pockets that I provided when I installed the studs. I secure them with (2) 3” stainless steel screws and through bolt them to the adjacent stud with 3/8” bolts. I then proceed to install the loft decking. I use 2×6 t&g hemlock decking. I select these boards as well to make sure both the top and bottom sides are free of checks, knot holes, and lumber yard dings. These surfaces will be exposed on both sides so I do go through quite a few boards to get the boards that will have the best appearance. I also visit my local rebuilding center frequently looking for lumber that may fit my needs and be reused. I blind screw them into the beams below using 2 ½” square drive finished head screws at each beam and at the edges of the loft.

2x6 T&G Hemlock decking

Corner Framing

Roof framing:
After the loft decking is installed then I focus on the roof framing. This system seems to be all about repetition. Since this is a gable roof design it is quite simple and involves little complicated compound cuts unlike a jack rafter. Set yourself up comfortably to be attending individual tasks that just need to be repeated. The first step is the only step that is only done once. Setting your ridge. Since I am using rafters and not trusses I need to provide a ridge board so that my rafters may have a terminus at the top of the roof. This needs to be level so I provide bracing at either end, place my 2×6 x 20’ ridge board, and shim to achieve a level surface. I measure for my proper rafter length and design my bird mouth so the rafter will sit true to the top plate. Then I cut my rafter until I find the perfect fit and call it my template. I use this template and repeat the cuts 22 times to make 22 rafters (11 on each side of the ridge). I provide three lookouts at each rafter to support my fascia boards at the gable ends so I cut 4 of my gable rafters accordingly to receive the 2×4 lookouts. I install the rafters at 24” o.c. by using (2) 3” stainless steel screws at the ridge and two at the bird mouth using a pilot bit to pre drill the screw holes. I then use hurricane ties to fasten the rafters to the wall top plates.

Window and Door Framing

Since my fascia boards are supporting my roofing I refer to them as framing members and they will be the last of the framing to be completed. I use 2x 8 cedar fascia boards that will be attached to my rafter tails and rip them to match my roof angle so that I get full contact with the rafter tails. I leave these cedar rake fascias long and trim them in place to match my outrigger length. I use 2×8 gable end cedar fascias, cut and sand them to my decorative desire and attach them to the lookouts and the cedar rake fascia. I use (2) 3” Stainless steel screws at all cedar fascia locations where they attach to other framing members. This completes the framing portion of the project and leads us to the next phase, sheathing and moisture protection.

Roof framing

Fascia

Today’s Trilliums are built utilizing the original models. So the quality, design, and floor plans are true to the former manufacturing standards. The overall look of the fiberglass body remains the same. Big improvements are in the area of newer, high tech appliances, modern cushion materials, curtains, and exterior graphics. The trailers have the same dimensions, but will weigh a little more. This is due to the addition of more equipment that users have requested in the trailers.

Tom has opened up his design process to include feedback and ideas from Trillium fans. Some of the new ideas include open storage cabinetry, a small bathroom, modern styling and clean lines.

Trillium RV produces two models: the 1300 and the 4500, two floor plans without bathrooms, a four sleeper bunk,  a three sleeper front dinette, and  a bathroom floor plan. The new Trillium has an even higher level of quality control, some degree of customization, and top notch customer service. The trailers are sold directly to the consumer, without a dealer network.

Both the 1300 and the 4500 include these features and basic equipment:

1300

• 2,000 lb. maintenance free torsion axle – capacity/GVW
• 13 feet 5 inches in length
• 12 Gauge Heavy Duty Steel Frame
• 20 lb. propane tank
• 45 Amp Power Converter/Battery Charger
• Patio Light
• 4″ High Quality Cushions

4500

• 2,200 lb. maintenance free torsion axle – capacity/GVW
• 15 feet 3 inches in length
• 12 gauge heavy duty steel frame
• 20 lb. propane tank
• 45 amp power converter/battery charger
• Patio light
• 4 inch high quality cushions

Both the 1300 and the 4500 are offered in the Classic Model and the Legend Model. The cost of the 1300 Classic is $11,995 and the 4500 Classic is $13,995. The cost of the 1300 Legend is $13,995 and the 4500 Legend is $15,995. The Legend comes with everything that is included in the Classic plus additional items such as:

• Upgraded refrigerator
• LED reading lights
• Cable TV hookup
• Kitchen counter extension
• Day/Night shades
• MaxxAir roof power vent upgrade

If you are interested in a Trillium, but are not ready to buy, Trillium RV trailers are also offered as rentals.

By Christina Nellemann for the [Tiny House Blog]

Once you have a design set, received your lumber, windows, doors, fasteners and updated and provided your proper tool maintenance you will be ready to get your hands dirty.

Custom 10,000 lb GVWR Frame

I call this first phase of construction a “sandwich system” because of the way the materials are stacked to get you to the wall framing phase of the project.

Simply put, the “Sandwich” is 3 ½” rigid board insulation layered between two sheets of ¾” T&G plywood.

Bottom slice of bread: The ¾” T&G plywood must be first prepared to make the underside roadworthy. This process involves first applying an oil based primer then a heavy duty epoxy sealer to the finished side of the plywood. This stuff is definitely not butter and I would recommend not eating it. This is the same sealer used under boats to make them watertight and more durable. It may be overkill, but I want to make sure that any rocks or road debris will not penetrate the undercarriage.

Once this is dried I am ready to cut the 4×8 plywood sheets and attach them to the trailer frame. Place the boards so that all the seams are located on the trailers metal cross members. Now you are ready to attach the first boards. There is a right way to do this and the wrong. You know you have done the wrong when all your bits break and screws are stripped. Use the correct fasteners, and spacing, do your research and I guarantee the process will be putting you on the porch swing with a tall glass of lemonade much quicker than the prior.

Level and true

Sandwich filling: After attaching the ¾” plywood, trimming any overhanging edges to square the layout, you will be ready to install the 2×4 edge boards and sleepers. These will provide a surface to attach the ¾” subfloor and enough space between where the rigid board insulation will be installed. I layout my sleepers on edge at 2’-0”centers to accommodate the plywood edges. I install these with ample amount of hardware hold-downs with #10 pan head screws at crucial locations to prevent uplift. I had a count of 70 hold-downs on the Cottage pictured here.

The easiest part of this system to install is the rigid board insulation. I use the rigid board not only for the durability but also for the R-value it offers. I definitely don’t do it for the upfront cost, but the 3 ½ inches provides you with an R value of 23.35 which will pay for itself every minute you are enjoying the warmth and quiet space in the Cottage. I strike a chalk line where I want my cuts and use a small handsaw to make my cuts. Installing the panels in their corresponding bays is done with a 2×4 board laid flat and a framing hammer, so as not to damage the insulation.

3/4" T&G underlayment w/2x4 sleepers

Top Slice of Bread: The top and final portion of our sandwich is the ¾” T&G subfloor.
For me installing these 4×8 sheets is the most satisfying portion of this first phase. I precut any sheets (finished side facing the conditioned space) that will be adjacent to the wheel wells and trim the other sheets once fastened. Again I make sure any plywood edges have a 2×4 sleeper or edge board located behind it to provide for proper nailing. I use a framing nail gun and finish all edges with 2 ½” nails space 6” o.c.. I space my nails at 9” or less in the field. After nailing all the edges and fields I return to the task by screwing the edges with # 8 2” screws. This is not a typical construction practice, but since most homes do not travel down the highway at 55 miles an hour, I want to make sure the materials stay attached to one another.

Rigid insulation w/ floor hatch framed

3/4" T&G subfloor instalation

Sandwich system complete

As Tarsha invests more and more into her home she was wondering what other owners with tiny houses on wheels have done for insurance? If it is possible to acquire it and how to approach an insurance company to insure the tiny house?

If you have had experience insuring a tiny house on wheels, please use the comment section to respond to Tarsha’s question. I will than post an update to share the knowledge with everyone.

Here is a brief description: Nicknamed “frozen smoke,” aerogel is extremely lightweight material, with a density only 3 times that of air. Only a small fraction of a volume of aerogel is the material itself. Most of the volume is filled with air. This makes aerogel an excellent insulator. (Aerogel provides nearly 40 times the insulation of fiberglass insulation.)

It is very expensive so has not made a big move into the building industry. NASA and other high tech companies have used it extensively up to this point.

A company called Themoblock is one company trying to bring it to main stream construction. Thermablok material is available both in sealed strips for stud insulation, and in bulk roll form.

Thermablok’s thin 1/4″ (6.35mm) profile allows it to fit between framing and sheathing without altering standard construction. It is applied in strips with a peel-and-stick adhesive backing or staples. It can be customized to fit on headers, rim joists, corners, rafters, window flashing and other hard to insulate areas. This makes ThermaBlok aerogel insulation an effectively universal solution for enhanced insulation value in any building partition.

Thermablok’s space age core component is an aerogel composite material that is over 90% air, making it a highly effective insulator. It has the lowest thermal conductivity of any solid material (0.0078 Btu/ft-hr-F).

In Thermablok, aerogel and micro fibers have been engineered into an extremely strong, durable, thin and flexible insulation material that is up to eight times more efficient than traditional insulation.

Architectural Team Looks to Win Department of Energy Competition
Using Thermablok™ Aerogel Insulation

When students from the California College of the Arts (CCA) and the University of Santa Clara, California began preparing for the competition, they approached Thermablok™ President and founder Lahnie Johnson for information regarding energy-conserving Thermablok aerogel insulation.

You can read more about this insulation by following these links below.

• http://thermablok.com/thermablok_insulation_applications.html
• http://greenbuildingelements.com/2008/04/11/aerogel-insulation-advances/
• http://www.solar-components.com/aerogel.htm

This is an excellent video series that walks you through the process of building a high quality shed and I think anyone building a tiny house would benefit from these videos.

Veteran contractor Rick Arnold is a contributing editor at Fine Homebuilding magazine. The shed you’ll see Rick build is not a prop in a studio. It’s an actual project, and the construction methods that Rick and his helper demonstrate reflect the best practices of professional builders. You’ll see firsthand what’s involved in locating and leveling the foundation, framing the structure, installing doors and windows, installing siding efficiently, and even landscaping effectively.

Of course remember to always consult local regulations before starting work. And good luck on your project! Go to the Fine Homebuilding website to view these videos.