That is a good idea about the kill a watt meter. I will look into that. I do plan on having 12v and 110v set ups both. I will just need to find a balance between them.

The trailer I selected was the Big Tex 10-cc in 16 foot length. It is a 10,000 lbs. GVWR, so I am sure it will handle the load. This trailer does not have a slope to it, unlike a lot of the other utility trailers. It has ramps that slide in underneath, and those can be removed as well.

I believe the loft will be large enough to sleep in if you sleep across the trailer width. The loft will be a bit under 8 ft across, and 6 foot depth. Just put your feet at the small end. If you get a smaller mattress, you would also have room for additional storage space too.

Because of the trailer height, I did lower the tall wall a few inches to keep it under the 13 foot 6 inch limit. In turn, I plan on lowering the loft joists a couple of inches as well to gain some of the loft space back. If you don’t like sleeping in the loft, you could use it for storage, and make a fold out bed on the solid wall.

I will suggest that you have a mix of the 120 AC and the 12 DC as to cover the needs for both. Make sure the inverter is a pure sine wave, not modified sine. Go take a look at Home Power magazine for help with the ideas with solar. Get a Kill-A-Watt meter as to measure the power used by each electrical device and know the power needs before they are installed.

I plan on building the same tiny as you are doing. But, with some modifications. I will be using SIP panels for better insulation and other things. I plan on it having SIP floor, walls, and roof. Some changes around the door. Simple plumbing. Plenty of electrical wire as to make plugs near any spot in the tiny and each switched as to kill the load when it is not needed.

Seeing that the floor deck installed on the trailer, I am wondering if there is any thing you can suggest before I start to buy stuff. Does the back of the trailer slope? Do you think you will have a large enough loft to sleep in it? What is the slope of you roof or have you had to changed it?

John

I had thought about a wood stove, but decided against it for fire danger. I would hate to be towing it and have some ashes fall out or a flare up and then have it catch on fire.

That is a good heads up on the 12v. I will be checking with an RV store to see how their appliances price out. It may be the way to go on many things.

Congradulations to Bill as well. A few thoughts.

It’s not quite as confient, but if you’re intending to be in a place with ample resources, perhaps a wood burning stove would be better for you. Also, since you intend to be completely disconnected, consider putting a little “shed” over the tounge of your trailer. In this area you can put your propane tank storage, a space for a small, propain powered generator for backup, and maybe an insulated, vented battery storage, so you can use cheaper flooded (non-sealed) lead-acid batteries.

Finally, do all the 12V you can. An inverter + 120V appliances are often much more energy hungry than their 12V companions. Most small electronics (ipods, powered speakers, laptop computer, etc) either work with power transformers (which can be replaced with car adaptors) or have car adaptor power optoins. 12V lights are common, and 60W+ equivilent CFLs are very common now in most RV/boat shops.

Good luck!